AU sujet de l’affutage

 

 

With this project, I’m not going to go to “good enough” or VERY sharp. I’m going to go to “it can’t get sharper” in my hands.

Got some stuff to do this am. And then I’m going to get started and take pics as I go.

Mike

Tune for Ten – T4T

Un bon petit bouquin pour se familiariser avec le tunning … une référence en la matière

tuningfortens2

Quelques scopes

Quelques scopes sur bossproshops

Une corde avec peu de brins

Hey Guys, We’ve done this to 4 bows with 3 different people and the results have all been the same…Quieter and faster for sure, subjectively smoother with less vibration. Just the opposite of the common logic. Juli shoots a bow that’s a bit over 30# at her 27″ draw. We went from an 8 strand string on it to a 2 strand. Yes…A 2 strand string…She won’t let me take it off there!

What got me to thinking about this is the flight bows…Shooting very tiny strings at 2 grains per pound or less with no problems. We throw around the word “traditional” and if we stepped back in time we find strings were made to one spec…To be strong enough for some safety factor. That appears to be a 5 to 1 ratio. 50# bow, a 250 pound string. OK go to 300# for a bit more safety margin. Look at what everone is shooting now days….Ferret up there is shooting a 2000# string! About 8 to 10 times stronger then what our traditional forefathers would be shooting. Folks feel/think “modern” strings are hard on bows. Could that be a reason? Sure modern strings don’t stretch when you make them 10 times stronger then the need to be.

Anyway, we’re shooing them and really like them. I’ve heard all the opinions and theories that fatter strings are more stable, quieter, ect…I sure don’t know where those opinions come from cause they sure don’t appear to be based in reality….O.L.

Technique de préhension de grip

Une réflexion et une technique qui tend à montrer que la façon de prendre le grip est plus importante que le grip lui même.

Ca se passe sur Tradtalk

This is just a little off topic maybe, but it still may be helpful.
It’s funny, but for many years I was hyper grip design conscious. However, early last year, I figured out that [how I gripped the bow] was much more important than what the grip shape was.
I stumbled on to a gripping technique while surfing archery sites. Once I adapted my grip, grip shape became almost a non-factor. (see below)
Hope it helps you as much as it helped me.

You point your thumb at the target, tuck the pinky and ring finger into the palm, letting the first and second fingers lay lightly against the grip. (see SUSF site for more pics and detailed info) http://archery.eusu.ed.ac.uk/resourc…hing_guide.htm
I had been giving David a hard time about his grip, but in hindsight, I think it was me more than it was the grip. I even think he sort of indicated that to me, but I wasn’t wise enough to catch it at the time. Still had some ego to get through…lol! Now I can pick up any bow/any grip and shoot it very comfortably and without torqueing it. Grip shape has become almost a non-issue.

Le pb des scope en exterieur

Un scop en exterieur ? Pb de givre, buée et pluie … comme ici

Vous avez des experiences à partager

Un scope sous la pluie

Grip compatible pour le DAS

Sur Tradtalk

Hoyt Avalon grips are a drop-in fit to DAS risers. Just another option.

Archery paradox en “slow motion”

L’ancrage haut est il un problème ?

Un post interessant sur PiratesOfArchery sur les problèmes d’alignement qui peuvent être liés à un ancrage trop haut.

Une technique pour s’assurer d’un bon alignement:

What I have learned from them about how to get into good alignment and how to recognise proper back tension in the rhomboids is to start with your bow at your side and reach for your knee. Then raise your bow horizontal to the ground and when it is paralell rotate your wrist. This will leave your bowside shoulder down, and your elbow pointing straight back. When you draw the bow as you are coming to anchor you should be able to feel the muscles along your spine squeeze together. Your drawing arm should be paralell but not necessarily in a straight line with your bowarm and that will make your arrow fall inline automatically. If you have good line and good back tension, on the shot your bowarm will move forward (even if it was straight remember it is no longer being compressed by the drawweight) and your string arm’s elbow will move back and to the side. Behind your head almost. The way you can practice feeling that squeeze in your rhomboids is to puff your chest out and pull your shoulders back. Almost like you were shrugging only to the rear instead of up.

The best grip … for YOU

Sur Pirates of Archery une discussion sur les préférences des grips: low, medium ou high hill ?

La remarque ci dessous me semble assez juste: tirez avec ce que vous convient le mieux sans se laisser influencer par les “rumeurs”. Le confort personel avant tout car chaque archer a une morphologie différente des alignements différents … après a vous de maîtriser le torque …

I thought it interesting that in Rick Mckinnys book he had several drawings from world class accomplished archers of were they felt the handle and how they gripped….all differnt, some were close but all different. Then I think of what Len Cardinale told me….if there was a perfect grip dont you think by now we would know it and tell everyone you grip it “this” way. Rwsbow said it……find the best grip for YOU….certainly try em all but once you feel its best for you, practice it so that you do it the same way “time in and time out” ….consistency is what we should be lookin for and only you can tell yourself what that is.